AutocomCars+Trucks 2020.23+сrаск,no pass

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ziemelis said:
AutocomCars+Trucks 2020.23+сrаск,no pass
Click to expand...

Thanks for the share!

Could you provide a bit more info on the installation process for the members?

  • Is the асtivаtоr/kеуgеn included in the archive, or is it a pre-activated replacement file?
  • Does this version work stable with the standard 1622 firmware, or does it require flashing the VCI to 3200/3201?
  • Is this the native installer or a VMware image?

Also, I don't see the link attached. Please update the post or let us know if it's via PM.
 
Run the installer. The installation password is "ThankYou.
"

Launch Autocom Cars from the desktop, enter your email address in the window that appears, and click Next. In the next program activation window, click Export FileActivation.xml and save the file to My Documents.


Don't forget to set the date to December 13, 2021 before activating!


Launch SuperActivator from the GanPower folder and paste the long text from the kеуgеn Activation file into the bottom window of Super асtivаtоr.


Click Register, and a message will appear indicating successful registration.

Click OK, and a new window will appear.
In this window, click the top line (File) and navigate to the previously saved FileActivation.xml.


Copy the contents of the large window and move it to the Autocom activation window, then click Activate.


The program should launch.

Cars and Trucks will be activated simultaneously.

Added a new асtivаtоr, "Autocom_2020.23_KeygenNoTimeNeed,"
that doesn't require a date change!
Password: www.psa-diag.fr
 
ziemelis said:
Run the installer. The installation password is "ThankYou.
"

Launch Autocom Cars from the desktop, ...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update regarding the NoTimeNeed асtivаtоr. Changing the system date is always a hassle and tends to break browser certificates, so that's a huge plus.

A couple of tips for those installing:
  • Make sure to disable your Antivirus/Windows Defender before extracting the GanPower folder or the new kеуgеn. These generic activators almost always get flagged as false positives and deleted instantly.
  • Check your VCI firmware version. This 2020.23 release usually requires the VCI to be updated to firmware 3200 or 3201 to function correctly with newer vehicles. If you are still on 1622 (common with older clones), you might get communication errors or limited functionality.

Does this installer automatically replace the firmware files in the installation directory, or do we need to copy the 3201 firmware files manually to Program Files (x86)\Autocom\Firmware?
 
MY ADAPTER HAPPENED AN AUTOMATIC FIRMWARE UPDATE
 
ziemelis said:
MY ADAPTER HAPPENED AN AUTOMATIC FIRMWARE UPDATE
Click to expand...

That is good news, it means the installer correctly placed the newer firmware files in the program directory.

It likely updated your VCI to version 3200 or 3201.

A quick word of caution for others reading this thread:
While automatic updates are convenient, be careful if you are using a lower-quality clone (especially some older double PCB units with incorrect components). Sometimes the automatic flash can fail or "brick" the unit if the hardware isn't up to spec. Single PCB units (green board) usually handle the update to 3201 without issues.

Since the update finished, you should verify the connection:
  • Go to Settings -> Hardware Setup.
  • Click Test.

It should confirm the new firmware version and show "OK". Let us know if you have successful communication with a vehicle now!
 
I disassembled my AutoCom
 

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ziemelis said:
I disassembled my AutoCom
Click to expand...

That is the best way to know exactly what hardware you are dealing with. There are too many different qualities of clones on the market.

What did you find inside?

  • Is it a Single PCB (usually green board, generally better quality) or a Double PCB?
  • Check the relays: Are they NEC (red/white) or generic orange/yellow ones? 5V relays are preferred for 12V/24V stability.
  • Look for the CAN filters and the 9241A chips. Real 9241A chips are needed for proper communication with older BMW and Ford vehicles. Many cheap units have fake components here.

If you can, post a photo of the board (both sides if it's a single PCB). We can help identify if it's a high-quality unit that will handle the 3201 firmware update reliably, or if it's a cheaper version that might struggle with newer trucks.
 
FOTO
 

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ziemelis said:
FOTO
Click to expand...

The photo didn't show up in your post. You might need to re-upload it or use an external image host.

However, since you have it open, just describe what you see. It is usually easy to tell the quality without the picture if you check these points:

  1. Number of Boards: Is it two boards connected by a pin header (Double PCB) or just one board (Single PCB)? Single PCB is generally preferred for newer firmware.
  2. Relays: What color are they?
    • White (NEC): Usually good quality (5V).
    • Orange/Yellow: Often lower quality (12V), might struggle with BMW/Ford.
  3. Main Chip: Look for the ARM processor. Does it say STM32F205 or something older?
  4. CAN Filters: Look near the connector. Do you see proper filters or just resistors/capacitors?

If you have a Double PCB V3.0 with the "701" marking on the board, be very careful with the 3200/3201 firmware. Those units are notorious for bricking or having no communication after an update.
 
STM32F205
TCS MAIN V9.0-2
Two plates
Relays:
White (NEC)
 
ziemelis said:
STM32F205
TCS MAIN V9.0-2
Two plates
Relays:
White (NEC)
Click to expand...

That is a decent configuration for a Double PCB unit.

  • STM32F205: This is the correct ARM processor needed for the newer software.
  • NEC Relays: This is very good. The white NEC relays are usually 5V and much more reliable than the orange ones found in cheaper units.
  • V9.0 Board: This revision is generally more stable than the older V3.0 double boards.

Since you mentioned earlier that the firmware update went through automatically, this hardware should work fine with Autocom 2020.23.

However, keep one thing in mind with Double PCB units running firmware 3200/3201:
If you encounter connection issues with specific cars (like older BMWs, Fords, or some Volvos), it might be due to the CAN transceivers or the 9241A chips. Even with good relays, sometimes the double board designs struggle with the timing on the newer firmware compared to the Single PCB units.

If everything connects and reads codes, don't touch it. If you have stability issues later, you might need to downgrade the firmware back to 1622, though that might limit some 2020+ vehicle functions.

Let us know how it performs on the first car you test!
 
ziemelis said:
Thank you! Bluetooth just doesn't work.
Click to expand...

Bluetooth issues are very common with these clones, especially the Double PCB versions. Since you already opened the unit, did you notice if the Bluetooth module was actually soldered on?

On the V9.0 Double PCB, the Bluetooth module is usually a small separate daughter board soldered onto the top PCB (near the USB connector). Sometimes they are soldered poorly or missing entirely on cheaper units.

Here is the standard troubleshooting procedure to get it working:

1. Windows Pairing
Do not try to connect inside Autocom yet. Pair it in Windows first.
  • Plug the unit into the car (OBD) to power it up (12V is required for BT, USB power is not enough).
  • Go to Windows Bluetooth settings -> Add Device.
  • It should show up as "Autocom", "CDP+", or a sеriаl number like "100251".
  • Pairing code is usually 0000 or 1234.

2. COM Port Check
Once paired, go to Device Manager -> Ports (COM & LPT).
You should see two "Standard sеriаl over Bluetooth" ports. Note the COM port numbers (e.g., COM4 and COM5). Usually, the lower number is the outgoing port you need.

3. Autocom Settings
  • Open Autocom -> Settings -> Hardware Setup.
  • Select Connection Type: Bluetooth.
  • In the COM-port dropdown, select the COM port you found in Device Manager.
  • Click Test.

If selecting the specific COM port fails, try the Search button in the Hardware Setup window. It will scan for available BT devices, but this can take a long time.

If Windows cannot find the device at all during step 1, and the unit is powered by 12V, the Bluetooth module on the PCB is likely dead or poorly soldered. You might have to stick to the USB cable.
 
Thank you very much! I'll have to check again.
Do you know about ALLScanner vcx-plus sn:V94XD05310
 
ziemelis said:
Thank you very much! I'll have to check again.
Do you know about ALLScanner vcx-plus sn:V94XD05310
Click to expand...

That is a completely different animal.

Important: The ALLScanner VCX-Plus (often sold as VXDIAG) will NOT work with the Autocom 2020.23 software discussed in this thread.

Autocom/Delphi software is designed to work exclusively with CDP/CDP+ hardware (like the STM32 unit you disassembled). It does not support generic J2534 Pass-Thru devices like the VCX-Plus.

Regarding that specific device (VCX-Plus):
  • It is a J2534 Pass-Thru interface.
  • It is designed to be used with OEM Manufacturer Software (e.g., Toyota Techstream, Honda HDS, Ford IDS, GM GDS2, VW ODIS, etc.).
  • You need to install the VX Manager software to install the drivers and manage the licenses for that sеriаl number.

If you are trying to use the VCX-Plus, you need to look for the specific OEM software for the car brand you are working on. Do not try to force it to connect to Autocom; it simply won't communicate.
 
If I know it, when is it passthru j2534,I will post a new post.
 
ziemelis said:
If I know it, when is it passthru j2534,I will post a new post.
Click to expand...

That is the correct approach.

Since this thread is dedicated to Autocom 2020.23, mixing in J2534 troubleshooting will just confuse people looking for help with the CDP+ activation.

When you make the new post for the VCX-Plus, make sure to include:
  • Which car brand you are trying to diagnose.
  • Which version of VX Manager you are using.
  • Screenshots of the liсеnsе tab in VX Manager.

Good luck with the Bluetooth repair on your Autocom unit! If you find a bad solder joint on the daughter board, a quick reflow usually fixes it.
 
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