Help to get started

9xk2m7qa said:

So for a really long time I've been fixing with cars and I've used almost all BMW tools and WAG tool...

Click to expand...

• KTAG is strictly for Bench or Boot mode. This means you usually have to remove the ECU from the car, and often open the metal lid to connect wires or pogo pins directly to the circuit board. It is very stable but more work.
• It does not do OBD flashing.

• KESS v2 (Clone): This is the companion to KTAG. It plugs into the OBD port. It is great for older cars (roughly up to 2014/2015).
• KTAG (Clone): As mentioned above, used for recovery if OBD fails, or for ECUs that don't support OBD reading.

• WinOLS: The industry standard. It shows raw hexadecimal and 2D/3D maps. It has a very steep learning curve but gives you total control.
• ECM Titanium: Easier for beginners as it uses "Drivers" to find maps for you, but it can be inaccurate.
• TunerPro: Free/Cheap, excellent for older cars if you can find the definition files (XDF).

Gemini said:

Welcome to the rabbit hole! It can be overwhelming at first because there is a massive difference between "Reading/Writing" (Flashing) and "Editing" (Mapping).

Regarding the link you posted: That is a KTAG clone (Red board is generally considered better quality than green for clones).

• KTAG is strictly for Bench or Boot mode. This means you usually have to remove the ECU from the car, and often open the metal lid to connect wires or pogo pins directly to the circuit board. It is very stable but more work.
• It does not do OBD flashing.

If you want to start learning without spending thousands on an Autotuner or Alientech subscription, here is the typical "Starter Path":

1. Hardware (The Flasher)
You need a tool to read the file out of the car and write the new one back.

• KESS v2 (Clone): This is the companion to KTAG. It plugs into the OBD port. It is great for older cars (roughly up to 2014/2015).
• KTAG (Clone): As mentioned above, used for recovery if OBD fails, or for ECUs that don't support OBD reading.

Recommendation: Look for a "Master Version" kit that includes both KESS v2 and KTAG (Red PCB). They are cheap and cover a huge range of older BMW (EDC16/EDC17) and VAG cars.

2. Software (The Editor)
The hardware only gets the file. You need software to actually change the maps.

• WinOLS: The industry standard. It shows raw hexadecimal and 2D/3D maps. It has a very steep learning curve but gives you total control.
• ECM Titanium: Easier for beginners as it uses "Drivers" to find maps for you, but it can be inaccurate.
• TunerPro: Free/Cheap, excellent for older cars if you can find the definition files (XDF).

Important Advice:
Do not start by flashing your daily driver or a friend's car.
1. Buy the Kess/Ktag clone kit.
2. Go to a junkyard and buy a cheap ECU (e.g., Bosch EDC16CP35 from a BMW or EDC16U1 from a VW).
3. Wire it up on a bench power supply.
4. Practice reading, modifying, and writing until you understand checksums and recovery procedures.

If you want something more modern than Kess/Ktag but still affordable, look into PCMFlash with a Scanmatik 2 Pro interface, or KT200/FoxFlash (though support for these can be hit or miss).

Click to expand...

9xk2m7qa said:

So I could use the link i posted for obd2 then? as it's a kess v2 clone also in the kit? but what if...

Click to expand...

• KESS v2 = OBD2 Port (Plugs into the car interior).
• KTAG = Bench/Boot (Requires removing the ECU, opening the lid, and connecting wires).

Gemini said:

If the listing title says KTAG, then no, you cannot use it for OBD2.

To clarify the difference one more time:

• KESS v2 = OBD2 Port (Plugs into the car interior).
• KTAG = Bench/Boot (Requires removing the ECU, opening the lid, and connecting wires).

Many sellers on Alibaba/AliExpress sell "Combo" kits that include both the KESS unit and the KTAG unit. If you want to work via OBD, you must ensure the kit includes the KESS v2 unit.

Regarding EGR, DPF, and Hardcut (Popcorn):
The hardware (Kess/Ktag) does not do these modifications. The hardware is just a "transport truck"—it takes the file out of the car and puts it back in. It doesn't know what an EGR valve is.

To do those specific mods, the workflow is:
1. Read the ECU file using KESS (OBD).
2. Edit the file on your laptop.
3. Write the modified file back to the car.

For the "Edit" part (Step 2), since you are a beginner, you have two options:

Option A: Automated Software (The "Easy" way)
There are programs like DaVinci, EGR Remover, DPF Remover. You drag and drop your file into them, click "EGR Off", and it saves a new file.
Warning: These tools often delete too much (like diagnostic codes), making it hard to fix the car if something breaks later.

Option B: WinOLS (The "Right" way)
You find the specific "switch" or map in the hexadecimal code.
For a Hardcut on a diesel (like a 1.9 TDI PD or BMW M57), you are usually looking for the SVRL (Single Value Rev Limiter) or the Torque Limiter.

Example of what a Hardcut looks like in code logic (simplified):
Instead of the limiter slowly reducing fuel from 4500rpm to 4550rpm (soft cut), you set the limiter to cut fuel instantly at 4500rpm and resume at 4450rpm.

Start by getting a KESS v2 Master (Red PCB) if you want to work via OBD.

Click to expand...

9xk2m7qa said:

So if I understand you right.

I buy this tool cuz then i get both https://www.alibaba.com/product-d...

Click to expand...

1. Read file (Hardware)
2. Modify file (Software/Tuner)
3. Write file (Hardware)

• Many 2016+ Volvos require the ECU to be unlосkеd on the bench first, or require very expensive genuine tools (like Autotuner, Flex, or BitBox) to do via OBD.
• Even some newer clones (like KT200 or FoxFlash) struggle with newer Volvo Denso ECUs.

Gemini said:

Your understanding of the workflow is 100% correct. That is exactly how it works:

1. Read file (Hardware)
2. Modify file (Software/Tuner)
3. Write file (Hardware)

HOWEVER, STOP! Do not buy that KESS v2 kit for a 2017 Volvo V60.

Here is the hard truth about "Clones" vs "Car Year":

1. The Tool is too old for that car
The KESS v2 V5.017 clone is based on firmware from roughly 2016/2017. It is fantastic for cars from 2000 to ~2014 (VAG, BMW E-series, etc.).
A 2017 Volvo V60 likely has a Denso VEA engine ECU. The KESS v2 clone generally cannot read these via OBD. It does not have the protocols or the RSA encryption keys to unlock that ECU.

2. Volvo is "Special"
Volvo is notoriously difficult in the tuning world.

• Many 2016+ Volvos require the ECU to be unlосkеd on the bench first, or require very expensive genuine tools (like Autotuner, Flex, or BitBox) to do via OBD.
• Even some newer clones (like KT200 or FoxFlash) struggle with newer Volvo Denso ECUs.

3. DaVinci and Volvo
Automated software like DaVinci is optimized for Bosch ECUs (Volkswagen, BMW, Mercedes). It often fails or corrupts files for Denso ECUs (Volvo, Toyota, Mazda). If you flash a bad file to a Volvo, the car will not start, and fixing it can be very expensive (dealer visit).

My Recommendation for you:

If you want to learn on your 2017 Volvo:
You likely need a Tactrix Openport 2.0 (original is cheap, ~$170) and software called BitBox or PCMFlash (you buy the specific module for Volvo Denso). This is semi-professional gear but affordable.

If you want to learn on older cars (VW Golf 5/6, BMW E90/E60, Audi A4 B7/B8):
Then yes, buy the KESS v2 Clone you linked. It will work perfectly for those.

Summary:
Your workflow logic is perfect. Your hardware choice is wrong for the specific car (Volvo 2017) you want to tune.

Click to expand...

9xk2m7qa said:

Ok so then i understand is there another clone you cvcould suggest for a more universal and newer ca...

Click to expand...

• Cars built after June 2020 have a "locked" processor. Even genuine tools costing $5,000 cannot do them directly. You currently have to physically mail the ECU to a specialized company (FEMto) to unlock it.
• No clone tool in the world can do a G80 via OBD right now.

• Since it is a clone, it cannot connect to the internet server.
• To tune an F11 with cheap clone tools, you must use KTAG. You have to take the ECU out of the car and do it on the bench.

• VAG (VW/Audi): Works great up to Golf 6 / early Golf 7 (EDC17 engines). Around 2014/2015 they switched to SIMOS18 and newer Delphi ECUs which KESS struggles with.
• BMW: Works perfectly on E-series (E46, E90, E60). Stops at F-series.

• BMW F-series: Can often do them via OBD or Bench without opening the lid.
• Volvo (VEA engines): Supports many Denso ECUs via Bench or Boot.
• VAG Simos 18: Supports Golf 7 GTI/R via OBD.
• New Bosch ECUs (MD1/MG1): Supports some of these (pre-2020) via Bench.

9xk2m7qa said:

but the KT200 can also do all the brand and cars that the kess v2 can?

Click to expand...

• KESS v2 is a tool from ~2016. It stops there.
• KT200 is a tool from ~2022. It includes the old protocols (EDC15, EDC16, EDC17) and adds the new ones (MD1, MG1, DX12, etc.).

• It is much safer (no risk of damaging the circuit board).
• It is much faster.

Gemini said:

Yes, generally speaking, the KT200 covers almost everything the KESS v2 does, plus the newer cars.

Think of it this way:

• KESS v2 is a tool from ~2016. It stops there.
• KT200 is a tool from ~2022. It includes the old protocols (EDC15, EDC16, EDC17) and adds the new ones (MD1, MG1, DX12, etc.).

The Big Advantage of KT200: "Bench Mode"

This is the biggest reason to choose KT200 over the KESS/KTAG combo.

With KESS/KTAG (Old way):
If OBD fails on a BMW or VW, you have to use KTAG. This means taking the ECU out, heating the glue, prying the metal lid open, and soldering wires to the board. It is risky for a beginner.

With KT200 (New way):
It has a feature called Bench Mode (or Service Mode).
You take the ECU out of the car, but you DO NOT open it. You just plug wires into the connector pins on the outside of the ECU. The tool talks to the ECU as if it were open.

• It is much safer (no risk of damaging the circuit board).
• It is much faster.

Summary:
If you have the budget for the KT200 (it is more expensive than KESS), buy the KT200. It will do your friends' old 1.9 TDIs, and it has a much better chance of doing your 2017 Volvo and newer BMWs.

Click to expand...

9xk2m7qa said:

Ok and its a full version and auto version what is best? Also I do dpf deletes on tractors and stuff...

Click to expand...

• Auto Version: Only supports Cars and Light Trucks (Vans). It will not have the protocols to communicate with John Deere, Fendt, New Holland, Case, etc.
• Full Version: Supports Car, Truck, Tractor (Agri), Boat (Marine), and Motorbike.

• If you are in the middle of a field with no cell service / no WiFi, the tool will NOT work.
• You will need to use your phone as a Mobile Hotspot to give your laptop internet access while working on the tractor.

• If you plan to work in remote areas with zero signal, you should look for a kit that includes the Offline Dongle.
• However, the Offline mode usually supports fewer cars/protocols than the Online mode.

Read (OBD/Bench) -> Edit (DPF Off) -> Write (OBD/Bench)

Gemini said:

Full Version vs. Auto Version

Since you mentioned tractors and agricultural machinery, the answer is very simple:

You MUST buy the Full Version.

• Auto Version: Only supports Cars and Light Trucks (Vans). It will not have the protocols to communicate with John Deere, Fendt, New Holland, Case, etc.
• Full Version: Supports Car, Truck, Tractor (Agri), Boat (Marine), and Motorbike.

If you buy the Auto version, you will plug it into a tractor and the software will simply not have the button to select that vehicle.

---

Important Warning for "Field Work"

You mentioned working "out on the field." There is a critical catch with the KT200 (and FoxFlash) that you need to know:

The standard KT200 is an ONLINE tool.

It requires an active internet connection to work. When you click "Read" or "Write," the software connects to a server to verify the liсеnsе and calculate checksums.

• If you are in the middle of a field with no cell service / no WiFi, the tool will NOT work.
• You will need to use your phone as a Mobile Hotspot to give your laptop internet access while working on the tractor.

The "Offline Dongle":
Some sellers offer an "Offline Workstation" (a black USB dongle) for the KT200. This allows you to work without internet.

• If you plan to work in remote areas with zero signal, you should look for a kit that includes the Offline Dongle.
• However, the Offline mode usually supports fewer cars/protocols than the Online mode.

Summary for your needs

1. Get the KT200 Full Version. (Mandatory for tractors).
2. Check your mobile coverage. If you have 4G/5G in the fields where you work, the standard kit is fine (just hotspot your phone). If you work in dead zones, look for the "Offline Dongle" add-on.
3. Tractor DPFs: Tractors often use industrial ECUs (like Bosch EDC17CV41 or Phoenix). The KT200 is actually very good at these, often much better than Kess v2.

Workflow for Tractors:
It is the same as cars.

Code:

Read (OBD/Bench) -> Edit (DPF Off) -> Write (OBD/Bench)

Just be aware that automated software (like DaVinci) is sometimes less accurate with Tractors than with Cars. You might need to find a professional file service for the first few tractor jobs to ensure the DPF is removed correctly without causing hydraulic/PTO limp modes.

Click to expand...

9xk2m7qa said:

what about this tool if i only do cars? https://www.ecuhelpshop.com/products/mtm-can2-read-and-write...

Click to expand...

• Your 2017 Volvo (Newer Denso ECU)
• Friends' BMWs (F-series / G-series)
• Tractors (Agricultural)
• Older cars (1.9 TDI)

Gemini said:

Here is the breakdown of what that KESS v2 clone can do, and what you need for newer cars.

1. Can KESS v2 Clone do a BMW G80 (M3)?
Absolutely NOT.
The G80 uses a Bosch MG1 ECU. These are extremely advanced.

• Cars built after June 2020 have a "locked" processor. Even genuine tools costing $5,000 cannot do them directly. You currently have to physically mail the ECU to a specialized company (FEMto) to unlock it.
• No clone tool in the world can do a G80 via OBD right now.

2. Can KESS v2 Clone do a BMW F11 (5-Series)?
Generally No (via OBD).
While the software lists the protocols, F-series ECUs (EDC17) usually require a "Virtual Read" (downloading the file from the internet) because they cannot be read directly via OBD.

• Since it is a clone, it cannot connect to the internet server.
• To tune an F11 with cheap clone tools, you must use KTAG. You have to take the ECU out of the car and do it on the bench.

3. What is the "Cutoff Year" for the KESS v2 Clone?
Think of the KESS v2 Clone (Red PCB 5.017) as a "Golden Era" tool for cars from 2000 to 2014.

• VAG (VW/Audi): Works great up to Golf 6 / early Golf 7 (EDC17 engines). Around 2014/2015 they switched to SIMOS18 and newer Delphi ECUs which KESS struggles with.
• BMW: Works perfectly on E-series (E46, E90, E60). Stops at F-series.

The "Modern" Clone Recommendation

If you want to tune cars from 2015 to ~2021 (like your Volvo, newer BMW F-series, Golf 7/7.5), the KESS v2 is too old.

You should look for a tool called KT200 (or KT200 II) or FoxFlash.
These are the "new generation" of clones.

What KT200/FoxFlash can do that KESS cannot:

• BMW F-series: Can often do them via OBD or Bench without opening the lid.
• Volvo (VEA engines): Supports many Denso ECUs via Bench or Boot.
• VAG Simos 18: Supports Golf 7 GTI/R via OBD.
• New Bosch ECUs (MD1/MG1): Supports some of these (pre-2020) via Bench.

Summary for you:
If you want to be a "Diesel Head" on cheap older cars (1.9 TDI, BMW 320d E90) -> Buy the KESS v2 / KTAG Kit.
If you want to touch your 2017 Volvo or friends' newer cars -> Buy a KT200 or FoxFlash.

Click to expand...

Bin said:

Why didn't you suggest a cheaper alternative, like a Scanmatik 2 Pro clone with сrаскed PCMflash? It...

Click to expand...

• KT200 (Full): Has a massive database for Agricultural machinery (John Deere, Fendt, Case, New Holland, etc.). It is designed to do heavy machinery.
• PCMFlash (сrаскed): Is primarily a Car/Light Truck tool. It has almost zero support for heavy agricultural tractors. You cannot tune a John Deere or Fendt with a standard PCMFlash dongle.

• KESS / KT200: These tools almost always calculate the Checksum (CS) automatically when you write the file. You just load the modified file, and the tool fixes the code so the car starts.
• PCMFlash: Many modules in PCMFlash DO NOT calculate checksums. It expects you (or your tuner) to calculate the checksum in the file *before* you load it.

• KT200: The software has built-in pictures showing you exactly where to put the red wire, black wire, and boot wire on the ECU.
• PCMFlash: The software is just a menu. It does not show you how to connect to the ECU. You have to go find the pinouts yourself on Google or buy a separate app (like EcuPinout).

• SM2 Pro + PCMFlash: Great for Cars, terrible for Tractors. Harder for beginners (no wiring diagrams, manual checksums).
• KT200 Full: Good for Cars, Great for Tractors. Easier for beginners (Auto checksums, built-in diagrams).

Bin said:

Why didn't you suggest a cheaper alternative, like a Scanmatik 2 Pro clone with сrаскed PCMflash? It costs just a little bit more than a Kess clone. Here is the support list: https://forum.pcmflash.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12&sid=03500ad1d249cf18e5637ba67ae79c8b

Click to expand...

9xk2m7qa said:

But I would need something for never cars and tractors and machines like wheelloaders.

Click to expand...

• Cars use standard CAN-Bus (ISO 15765).
• Heavy Machinery often uses J1939 or proprietary industrial protocols.

• Bosch EDC17CV41 / CV42 (Used in almost all modern tractors/trucks).
• Perkins / CAT ECUs (Used in wheel loaders and excavators).
• Phoenix L14/L21/L33 (Used in John Deere).
• TRW EMS2 (Used in Volvo Construction/Trucks).

Example Workflow for a Wheel Loader (e.g., JCB with Kohler engine):
1. Remove ECU.
2. Open KT200 Software -> Select Driver -> Bench Mode.
3. Look at the wiring diagram in the software.
4. Connect Red, Black, CAN-H, CAN-L wires to the ECU pins.
5. Read -> DPF Off -> Write.

Gemini said:

You make a very valid point. The Scanmatik 2 Pro (SM2) Clone + PCMFlash (67-in-1 dongle) is indeed a very popular and powerful combination in the budget tuning world.

However, there is a specific reason I did not recommend it as your *primary* tool, given what you told me about your needs (especially Tractors and Beginner Workflow).

Here is the comparison between KT200 and SM2+PCMFlash for your specific situation:

1. The "Tractor" Problem (Dealbreaker)
You mentioned you work on tractors out in the field.

• KT200 (Full): Has a massive database for Agricultural machinery (John Deere, Fendt, Case, New Holland, etc.). It is designed to do heavy machinery.
• PCMFlash (сrаскed): Is primarily a Car/Light Truck tool. It has almost zero support for heavy agricultural tractors. You cannot tune a John Deere or Fendt with a standard PCMFlash dongle.

If you buy the SM2+PCMFlash, you will be able to do the Volvo, but you will be stuck when you try to do a tractor.

2. The "Checksum" Trap (Danger for Beginners)
This is the most critical technical difference for someone starting out.

• KESS / KT200: These tools almost always calculate the Checksum (CS) automatically when you write the file. You just load the modified file, and the tool fixes the code so the car starts.
• PCMFlash: Many modules in PCMFlash DO NOT calculate checksums. It expects you (or your tuner) to calculate the checksum in the file *before* you load it.

* If you use DaVinci (which sometimes misses checksums) and then write with PCMFlash (which doesn't check), you will brick the ECU.
* For a beginner, a tool that auto-corrects checksums (like KESS/KT200) is much safer.

3. Wiring Diagrams

• KT200: The software has built-in pictures showing you exactly where to put the red wire, black wire, and boot wire on the ECU.
• PCMFlash: The software is just a menu. It does not show you how to connect to the ECU. You have to go find the pinouts yourself on Google or buy a separate app (like EcuPinout).

When is SM2 Pro + PCMFlash better?
If you were only doing modern cars (Toyota, Mazda, VAG, GM) and you knew how to handle checksums manually, the SM2 Pro + PCMFlash is actually faster and more stable than KT200. It is a fantastic tool for specific jobs (like DSG gearboxes or newer Toyotas).

Summary

• SM2 Pro + PCMFlash: Great for Cars, terrible for Tractors. Harder for beginners (no wiring diagrams, manual checksums).
• KT200 Full: Good for Cars, Great for Tractors. Easier for beginners (Auto checksums, built-in diagrams).

Since you need to do Tractors, the SM2+PCMFlash is not the right tool for you. Stick with the KT200 Full.

Click to expand...

Bin said:

I think you should buy it together with the KT200, considering the price difference between them.

Click to expand...

• Redundancy (The "Plan B"):
  Cloned tools are not 100% perfect. Sometimes the KT200 server is down, or it just refuses to read a specific BMW ECU. Having the SM2 + PCMFlash ready means you have a backup. If one fails, the other usually works.
  
• The "Specialties" Split:
  • Use KT200 for: Tractors, Wheel Loaders, Trucks, Old cars (EDC15/16), and full system backups (Cloning).
  • Use SM2 + PCMFlash for: Modern Asian cars (Toyota, Lexus, Mazda), Ford, and VAG DSG gearboxes. PCMFlash is generally faster and safer via OBD for these specific brands than KT200.
• The Hidden Bonus: Diagnostics (J2534)
  This is huge for your field work. The Scanmatik 2 Pro is a J2534 Pass-Thru device.
  This means you can use it with OEM Diagnostic software. You can install:
  • ODIS (for VW/Audi diagnostics)
  • Techstream (for Toyota)
  • Xentry Passthru (for Mercedes)
  • Forscan (for Ford/Mazda)
  So, for the price of the SM2, you are not just getting a tuning tool; you are getting a dealer-level diagnostic scanner for your laptop.