IMMO Doctor Multi-Brand Immobiliser Repair Utility

IMMO Doctor Multi-Brand Immobiliser Repair Utility 2.1

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IMMO Doctor Multi-Brand Immobiliser Repair Utility
IMMO Doctor Multi-Brand Immobiliser Repair Utility 2.1
Sign in to download for free
  • Thread starter Thread starter Bin
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None
It goes to ON without doing anything and I put the jumper between pins 4 and 13, there is no reactio...

It is very good that the ignition turns ON. This means your Smart ECU has accepted the key and the Steering Lock (ESL) has successfully learned the signal (since you virginized it).

The only remaining step is the handshake between the Smart ECU and the Engine ECU (and ID Box).

Regarding the "No Reaction" / No Flashing Light:

1. Check the Bridge: Make sure your wire is making good contact in terminals 4 and 13.
2. Check Other Lights: When you bridge 4 and 13 and turn Ignition ON, do the ABS or Airbag lights flash on the dashboard?
* YES: If other lights flash, the car IS in diagnostic mode. Even if the Check Engine light is solid (not flashing), wait the full 35-40 minutes. On some models, the Check Engine light does not flash during this procedure.
* NO: If *no* lights flash at all, check the OBD Fuse (often labeled OBD, CIG, or ECU-B) in the fuse box. The car is not entering diagnostic mode.

Important Indicator:
Look at the Security Light (Red car with key icon).
  • When Ignition is ON, is the Security Light OFF?
  • If the Security Light is OFF, the Key is accepted.
  • If the car cranks but does not start, or starts and dies immediately, you just need to complete the 35-minute wait.

Recommendation:
1. Connect a battery charger (the process takes a long time).
2. Bridge pins 4 and 13.
3. Turn Ignition ON (do not start engine).
4. Verify if *any* dash lights are flashing (ABS/Airbag).
5. Wait 40 minutes.
6. Turn Ignition OFF.
7. Remove jumper.
8. Try to start.

If this fails, it confirms that your vehicle does have an ID Code Box (Immo Box) hidden behind the heater, and it is refusing to sync with the donor Smart ECU dump. In that case, you would need to dismantle the dash to read the ID Box or use a pass-code generator if you have a diagnostic tool (like Techstream) to perform the "Smart Code Reset" function.
 
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